These pipes join together in one central location that permits you to run a duct down to the basement or a second-floor closet.As a last resort, you may have to put a duct in the corner of a room(s). I would connect the motor to the 10 inch on the Y and exhaust the air over the stove with 10 inch flexible ducting. I've been told by a professional HVAC company the set-up the builder installed in 2006 is essentally reducing the functional capacity of the system to a 2 or 2.5 ton system due to the cfm deficientcy across the evaporator coils. Our return vent we have is a 20x20x1.My High / Raised ranch has 3 returns. Also, when we had the fan running the air coming through the vent was VERY loud.
It runs across the basement ceiling, perpendicular to the ceiling joists, sitting right below them. This is a static pressure calculation. Make him/her prove to you that the interior coil will handle the outside unit.Remember, the inside coil could have been wrong from the beginning! I have a capped off 6" supply run stubbed out about 2 feet from the furnace plenum that was intended for heating/cooling the basement.I plan to "y" or tee that stub and run two separate supply runs.

When doing this we got rid one of the cold air returns, so now the big bedroom is cold. The previous owner made some questionable choices like putting an interior door on what should be an exterior, and I’m working on fixing things as I can. The return ducts in my basement are exactly 1/2" below the top of my head (ask me how I know). Humidity can b very high in the winter we constantly have to run a dehumidifier in the house and nothing can b against the outside walls in the rooms or mould can appear . Am I correct in my assumption?I just revised the column above and cover your situation with new content. Is my sizing in the ducts adequate? I have broken straps and sagging and it looks like something has been chewing on the cover. This problem can be overcome with good duct design -- or by connecting your new return-air duct directly to the return-air plenum, and sizing it correctly. With the low wall returns in each downstairs bedroom, we eliminated the fault codes, and the downstairs rooms are much warmer. You have to do calculations to determine your Heat Gain. Author: Blake ShurtzMuch like the recommendation to install dampers, I almost always emphasize adding a second return when replacing ductwork. New build in Ontario with Zehnder ComfoAir 550 HRV (home run system - not tied into furnace) Does the furnace need traditional cold air returns in various rooms or can we just draw air back into the furnace directly from the basement (where the furnace is located) The HRV is already moving air so not sure of the purpose of the cold air returns in this setup Steve I thought I'd place the return registers opposite each other (about 15 feet apart) midway between the supply registers so they each draw from the center of the room. Should I be concerned?I have a 2200sq ft home with 4 levels, it was built in 2012. After reading your article, I now realize that I am going to have to get a HVAC guy to overhaul my heating/ac system, and that because of the serious ineffeciency of my current system, it is much more of a necessity than just an improvement. if i move the main return vent, the secondary return vent is only a few feet away in the attic. And, when it comes to applying another rule of thumb to the building itself, another generally accepted factor is that the number of occupants in a building will be calculated as 1 per bedroom, plus 1.So, what this boils down to is that in a three-bedroom home, we would consider that there will be four people that need fresh air.And, 15 x 4 = 60 so the total fresh air requirement for the building would be 60 CFM.So, when you remove the filter from a return plenum in a gas furnace installation in a new home and look closely, you’ll likely note some kind of system that allows fresh air to be drawn directly from the outside and delivered into the return of the furnace cabinet. The current return is the size of the return opening on the AHU. Thanks!I am remolding a 97bottom year old farm house and i put central heat and air in it so i was wondering if you can put the cold air return duct in the ceiling in one corner and the actual duct in the ceiling in the other corner.i live in an 2 bedroom 1200 sq ft hi rise condo in atlanta ga. the hvac unit is in the center of the apt and supply lines are install up high ( since AC is predominately needed due to climate and the heat is easily retained from the concrete mass.
It has no ductwork at all!?! I hope i am in the right place. The return duct vents directly into utility room and the HVAC unit has an open return in-take, making the utility room into part of the return for all intents and purposes.This is the first time I've encountered this. Are there any options for changing the shape of that return to a lower profile, so it doesn't come down a full 12 inches?I have the exact same question. You will be cool and clammy.The air conditioner needs to run for a sufficient time to squeeze out the humidity that has seeped into your house. Don't hesitate to contact me if I can help.

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